Question: can you just set up camp wherever and spend the night? I wanna go.
not in the canyon
you can camp wherever you please on the road to get to hualapi hilltop (hilltop is literally 100 miles from the nearest tiny ass town and like 65 of those miles are on a tribal road that exists only to get to hilltop, but has tons of places you can get off the road and drive up some dirt tracks and camp for free)
camping at the havasupai campground needs reservations (they were booked which is part of the reason we did the one day trip) and you have to pay a fee to enter the area as well as another one to camp (it's like $35 to enter the area and then like $10/night to camp i think)
the place books up very quickly (they had no openings until early August when we asked), but if you go and are a small party you can often get a spot w/o reservations (or you can just pay to "enter" and then set up camp in the giant camping area and run the very tiny risk of having a tribal ranger ask to see your permit and get fined)