Loco Hombre Off the Mexico

The surf off Sydney and the East coast has been huge this week 10-15ft in most places. Kelly Slater was out and snapped his board:

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Must be the 50 year storm, just waiting for Bodhi to appear :sunny:
 
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Very nice looking lines there in Australia! Kelly is a machine.
I have one of his models he slapped his brand on... shaped by Tomo from Australia. I'm also still waiting for Simon Jones from Aus to shape my new board; prolly can't get out of the water there. Waves have been pretty good throughout the world this year.
 
I took off on a twelve foot (face) left a couple weeks ago... that's about as big as I'm taking anymore. I'm relaxed and happy with 4 - 8 foot faces now.

The first wave in ArakAtak's photo I'd say is a good 25 foot face...
and not a wave I'm looking for anymore.

I think it was back in 2006 or so I dropped into a few 20 foot faces way outside Oceanside harbor with only 3 other guys out.
 
It's the getting in and out of the ocean that can be the trickiest.
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This is not the fun part of surfing...

and this is not the fun part of living
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that's when you tag team a buddy with a jetski. Seriously I thought about this. Just take turns going back and forth hah
 
Thanks to Smiling Canadian
I'm remembering to bump this...
Lock down still in effect; can't surf right in front of my place.
Have to go out of town... which has been good!!!
Caught 13 foot faces and did well at a place called Carrizos
I've been working out and skateboarding in the parking area
and that's helped me get into shape.
Very good for surf practice and gets my heart pumping.


Nice sunset today
It's great to see the sunsets progress across the horizon as the year goes on
Today
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December '19
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Wow, worn out
I've been surfin' some pretty big waves (best ex. two bomber lefts 14ft faces two days ago) right out in front of the condo.
Virus-time is over just like that here.

Anyway
Yea a couple Presidents of Americas getting together to make their Nations strong!!!
Everybody's happy right?
wat?
https://www.foxnews.com/politics/trump-mexican-president-white-house
Trump meets Mexican president at White House, despite Democratic objections
It is Trump and Lopez Obrador's first face-to-face meeting

..."The relationship between U.S. and Mexico has never been closer than it is right now," Trump said...Lopez Obrador, meanwhile, hailed the agreement as "a great accomplishment benefiting all three nations and our people."...
Click to expand...
The third nation he's talking about must be the American Indian Nation right?
and the left is trigggrrreeeeeerrrreed; fill your glasses
 
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u see a lot of sharks surfin down there

my mexican buddy from around there said socal/florida surfers dont understand how much more often you see really big sharks when surfing pacific mx
 
naptown said:
u see a lot of sharks surfin down there

my mexican buddy from around there said socal/florida surfers dont understand how much more often you see really big sharks when surfing pacific mx
Click to expand...

Besides the fact it's bad luck to talk about sharks,,,

I have no problem writing about them.
I've seen one <3 ft shark come to the surface, turn a side fin, then disappear..
i looked around and no one else seemed alarmed....
look
a wave

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I don't have Osama resources. The Cessna I tried to hire didn't go for the 'jump out with this parachute; just hit the buildings or no pesos'
He did have a valid point about we not getting over 15 floors which doesn't give him much time...
 
Lucky you! I can't go to my second home :( My Bro in laws keep eye on place run AC and water once a week hang out drink a few beers we facetime. Damn virus!!!!
 
Well I kinda understand. I would have gone back twice now; a wedding and a graduation, if it weren't for the virus. My daughter and friends also would have traveled here.

You know who can go back and forth at will...
Dual-Citizens
which I would have been working on and hopefully have had
except for
the CCP-virus

my wife is leaving for TJ/US tomorrow
with her privilege
and $90 round trip tickets to TJ
 
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