Did I do this right?

just give me a moment to get a plumber here to fix the pipes and then i'll get the mud slapped on the wall and everyone will be totally amazed.
 
Or just take the valve part out before heating it so you a) don't have to heat it to sweat the pipe, and b) don't fuck up the valve.
 
seriously though it looks like you used this:

31EkOukN%2B9L._SX355_.jpg
 
Validuz said:
:rofl:

p.s. Argh. That wall almost definitely isn't load-bearing. Why didn't you just cut the entire thing out (matching the current walkway) and move the light switch? Do you know how much more work you're creating for yourself for a shitty window right next to a walkway? You should seriously cut your losses and consider it at this point.
Click to expand...

How can you make that call with no information provided? Just curious. Because to me, I don't see anything in his photo that would hint at whether it's load bearing.

But yes either way it would've been 10x better to just widen the existing door opening than do all this bullshit patchjob crap he did LMAO
 
I also would've guessed load bearing, because the light switch is about 3-4 inches from the doorway opening meaning there are 2 2x4s in there.

Regardless. I would've cut the opening bigger and installed a new header. Use a temp jack post to support it.
 
amRam said:
How can you make that call with no information provided? Just curious. Because to me, I don't see anything in his photo that would hint at whether it's load bearing.

But yes either way it would've been 10x better to just widen the existing door opening than do all this bullshit patchjob crap he did LMAO
Click to expand...
Well, I obviously have no guarantee either way, but there's already a doorway there. He can surely widen it with proper reinforcements.

Not sure I trust his definition of load-bearing regardless of what's in the basement. The roof could be and probably is separate.
 
talked to plumber. repair cost is $1,200. All the brass pipes must be removed since there's so much corrosion and general ass hattery with the plumbing. I thought this was the scenario since when I removed the vanity one of the water pipes simply fell off the T. I then wondered if that pipe was bad then what about the other ones i can't see....hmm...

Various combinations of copper and brass pipes (sink had one copper, one brass line just by itself) currently supply the upstairs toilet, shower, and sink. The pipes run up the center wall that i'm working on, then turn and run across the ceiling, and then T off to the different bathroom stuff. So those areas of the ceiling must be cut out to gain access to add the new copper lines.

I guess the worst part is I'd already finished drywalling and painting the ceiling and adding the crown trim. Fortunately I'd done a suck and drag texture on the ceiling so the repair can be easily blended back in.

I was really hoping Id have the opportunity to close up the drywall portion of this job but the kitchen is dragging out. Today I will shift plans and start the flooring upstairs.
 
Last edited:
KingSobieski said:
All the brass pipes must be removed since there's so much corrosion and general ass hattery with the plumbing. I thought this was the scenario since when I removed the vanity one of the water pipes simply fell off the T. I then wondered if that pipe was bad then what about the other ones i can't see....hmm...

Various combinations of copper and brass pipes (sink had one copper, one brass line just by itself) currently supply the upstairs toilet, shower, and sink.
Click to expand...

Galvanic-Corrosion_2.png
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top