TW Electricians hear my call.

Kiint said:
induction or halogen?
Click to expand...

It's a hybrid. Half induction, half radiant.

As you can see it's a massive step up and was one hell of a deal
so I wasn't too picky. I was surprised I could get any induction at all at that price..
 
Fatman said:
An ancient piece of cooking technology. It was the wave of the future back in the early 60's.
I replaced it with this:

kgrhqyokiwe3gsryji8bn1y.jpg


Retails for around $1500, got it for $550 off ebay, it was a demo, minor scratching in the stainless, barely noticeable.
Click to expand...

Awesome ! :clap:
 
Ugh, half/half suck, full induction or you lose. Mind you, I spent a fortune replacing all my cookware to make it induction compatible too.
 
Fatman said:
According to the install instructions, red to red, black to black, green and bare attached to the grounding screw on the box.

What do I do with the green from the cooktop? Cap it? Tie it into white? What do I do?
Click to expand...

I don't understand the problem. The instructions say to connect the grounds together and mount them on the enclosure. Doesn't that make it obvious where the green and bare go?


Boomerman said:
White is neutral and should be connected with the ground (green)
Click to expand...

White might be neutral, but you don't want to tie it together with ground. On your cooktop the white will probably only be used for some digital circuits if anything, and since your stove should be by itself, nothing else could be dumping on that line, so it's "safe", but not the right way to do it.

It's a bad practice because if you ground the neutral locally, there are now two competing paths. The first (and designed one) is back through the wiring to your service. The second will be locally through the chassis etc of your appliance. If something goes wrong with the service neutral line, the circuit will happily use your ground to complete the path. It's only the lack of a good ground path on your cooktop that saves you. Get out of the shower then hold the cooktop and your faucet at the same time (actually, please don't).
 
I forgot to mention that in the above analysis, with neutral and ground together there is competition between the service and the local frame for the current, but there is also competition with the ground. So in addition to the fact that the cooktop's circuit shouldn't have much 120V, it's also technically safe because of the designed ground path. I still wouldn't do it, though.
 
After further reading of the instructions last night I ended up connecting red to red, black to black, white to white, and green to bare which I grounded to the box. It seems to be working great.
A marked absence of fire.
 
In Finland it's Brown Black Gray for phases, light blue for neutral and green/yellow striped for protective earth.

Of course those are fairly new coloring codes, and you can never trust them if you're surveying wiring that someone else has done.
 
You know in a properly sized and designed kitchen you can't touch 2 appliances or the sink at the same time. This is to help prevent electrocution in the case of a miswired appliance.

Learned that a long time ago reading some architectural book...
 
CERVICAL-KREMS said:
my microwave is right above my stove

seeing as how i'm not a tyrannosaurus, i can touch both
Click to expand...

That is all considered part of the stove/oven center though.

I do agree but that isn't what this was referencing, a uwave is really a counter top appliance. Like a toaster oven or even a toaster.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top