Loco Hombre Off the Mexico

Just to help you keep the Stoke I sent this message to my buddy the other day.

I picked up the phone and started reading your text but I just got out of the water...
I can't remember the last time I saw such pretty lefts coming in Gary. The swell is still building not as consistent but I got more than my fair share out there pretty lucky today.
Two of my best ways are pretty similar. I took your board out today to get my paddling back after a week out of the water. Paddled in early but they steepened up fast. Wide crouching drop just barely holding on to the waves face... Grabbing my back rail almost purling. Racing along the steep overhead waves face... Almost tubed heh. A little offshore surface super smooth. Pretty awesome. I could have stayed out but it slowed down a bit I'm hoping and we're thinking the swell is going to be here the next couple days so didn't want to burn my arms out.
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Still good today but not as smooth as it was yesterday yesterday was extraordinary.
 
Board arrived today!

That's how things should work. Order a board Thursday arvo, it turns up Friday lunchtime :)


Just waiting on the fins to arrive now and I'll be hitting the beach


I shouldn't have too much of a problem, I grew up on surf beaches and surfed a lot when I was a kid, but was never all that good. probably b/c I had a totally unsuitable board.

I still bodysurf and bodyboard a lot so am used to getting smashed in the surf and I'm relatively fit, so it'll be a snack.
 
I hope it's working out for you ArakAtak,,,
Since you're in Byron Bay, hunt down Simon Jones
and tell him I think he showed me a picture of an orange Massive
that he shows everyone waiting for orange...
prolly has several other colors he pulls out
I'm almost back to not believing.
 
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ArakAtak said:
Good news - I have officially joined the ranks of 'Old Dude' surfer


Cheap, and good enough for me, this is on the way in a day or two :sunny:

bXHvfkB.jpg


Cowabunga dudes, it's totally tubular
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This is a really good shape. I don't know what the bottom is like
and I"m a big believer in bottoms
but I love the outline
 
Schooled Schooled - Album on Imgur

This Is My friend's board being shaped by another friend, who I should have asked me to shape a board, but I'm particular...
Which means my friend is going to shape a better board for my friend than I'm going to get back later on from AUS,,,
such is luck in my world of planning and counting chickens before they hatch.

I too can cut a curve with a saw; well not intentionally.
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Haha great comment.
 
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The bottom has a double concave. About 1/8" max. slightly less at the stringer.

Hard to get in a photo
YBtJQUZ.jpg


Fins arrived the other day, I have today off work but conditions are not good for me, perfect you maybe, swell is up to 16 ft so no way am I going out to kill myself ...

cxGeuyO.jpg


Weekend should be better <4 ft, hopefully I can get out sometime
 
ArakAtak said:
Board arrived today!

That's how things should work. Order a board Thursday arvo, it turns up Friday lunchtime :)


Just waiting on the fins to arrive now and I'll be hitting the beach


I shouldn't have too much of a problem, I grew up on surf beaches and surfed a lot when I was a kid, but was never all that good. probably b/c I had a totally unsuitable board.

I still bodysurf and bodyboard a lot so am used to getting smashed in the surf and I'm relatively fit, so it'll be a snack.
Click to expand...

You should totally paint the bottom to look like a seal ;)
 
Ya, I like precision which is what your machined board is.
Bottoms are important and it's hard for the hand shapers to get that right
and install fin boxes correctly
I'm hoping the Seaside and Beyond is really coming; it's a popout and not hand shaped... precise I like.
I've got a Rusty Twin fin that I busted the nose and my friend graciously fixed
(man he's getting good,,, brb, wtf is the parade on the malecon?... some political parade
imagine that, and no one getting shot)
looks a lot like your board but 6' 2"... (got a pic somewhere on here, Goshin thought graphics were pretty gay..kinda agreee)

you've got the fcs fin boxes
what fins are you getting?

It's a true twin fin with not even a trailer fin in the back
so, they really have set the fins in the proper placement,
way on the back
Hope you're picking up a tail patch to get your foot far back
that will help
 
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ps
It's always good to know the break
know the swell
know your limits

(I hope I do)

I got 3 chest high waves
and one outside set wave couple feet overhead today
to the chagrin of a lor of people who'd been waiting
but I snaked by paddling closer to the reef and outside
and, yea
got [strike]lucky[/strike] WHITE PRIVILEGE
 
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sneaky snake Severed :)

I got FCS2 Modern keels for it
gRBZuNV.jpg


Tail pad should be arriving today, nice low fish style which I can shape right down into the tail
R9C9PbJ.jpg

ETkxvJC.jpg


much excite
 
Glad I'm not out there today

h3XpFXE.jpg


that is a dude in the pic, getting swallowed by a big red circle ...

that reef tho
 
heheh
I'll take the 6' 9" rounded pin quad semi gun out in that
We were supposed to get swell, but I haven't seen much today.
Heading out early to a different place tomorrow.
Isla de Piedras....
 
Yeah, I'll be sticking to beach breaks for a while, there's a nice one just round the corner from that point
 
pad arrived today, all cleaned with acetone and stuck on

waxed up

fins fitted (tight little buggers! thx vaseline)

ready for a dip after work tomorrow, just for a paddle at the local bay beach (dark too early now to get to the surf after work)


it's finally happening!
 
Cool!
The FCS II fins are supposed to just click into place and be secure, but I've had a fin pop out and lost on a wave, and I know one other person that's happened to. I suggest putting screws in too if you didn't already.
 
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