KingSobieski
Veteran XX
This is an example of an appropriately thick wall
I mean, if your house can't withstand a broadside cannon volley can you really even call it a house?
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Roof technology
- Thread starter Plasmatic
- Start date
This is an example of an appropriately thick wall
I mean, if your house can't withstand a broadside cannon volley can you really even call it a house?
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Plas... of all the things to be an 'expert' in, I am an expert in roofing. I've done it for most of my life. 
(Turns out that according to professions and alcoholism, roofing is number rated #2 for producing alcoholics 
(also the 2nd most dangerous jerb, or was))
I am going to assume that you had a composition shingle on the roof, and will more than likely go back with a comp shingle? Please do all you can to not get the 3-tab comp shingle. It's a waste of time and money, unless you plan on moving before the shingle fails.
I also do not know where you live but I believe you live in an area where you get a lot of snow. You will need to find out the local building regulations because more than likely they will require that you install Storm and Ice Sheild along the gables, up the valley, and at all the drip edges.
I saw in one of the pictures that you have attic intake vents at the soffit. How many square inches is this intake vent?
[Your building code might require that the storm and ice shield be installed at the base of all penetration flashings]
There are 2 basic types of exhaust vents - the kind you originally had which has a hole cut through the roof NEAR the peak (unlike yours which are 2 - 3 feet below the peak) or you can get what is called a ridge vent; a product that requires that you cut a 2" wide strip out of the subroof plywood along all the peaks of your roof. There are 2 types of ridge vent: cheap and expensive with the cheap missing a vital component to block the wind from going through the ridge vent.
If you do go back with the flashing style of exhaust vent, put some on the opposite side of your home, and not just along the back. Also, make sure not to line the exhaust vents up on either side; they should be offset, or the wind will travel straight through the exhaust vent.
The cheaper ridge vent will allow wind to travel right through the vent and it creates a high-pressure system inside of the attic, and traps the superheated air inside. The more expensive ridge vent has wind baffles on the edges that prevent the wind from rushing through the opening and creating a high-pressure system in the attic.
Example:
See the little baffles along the edges?
Attic ventilation is very important to the longevity of the roofs. Under vented roofs will shorten the lifespan by a 1/4 or 1/2 of the recommended lifespan.
(Turns out that according to professions and alcoholism, roofing is number rated #2 for producing alcoholics (also the 2nd most dangerous jerb, or was)) I am going to assume that you had a composition shingle on the roof, and will more than likely go back with a comp shingle? Please do all you can to not get the 3-tab comp shingle. It's a waste of time and money, unless you plan on moving before the shingle fails.
I also do not know where you live but I believe you live in an area where you get a lot of snow. You will need to find out the local building regulations because more than likely they will require that you install Storm and Ice Sheild along the gables, up the valley, and at all the drip edges.
I saw in one of the pictures that you have attic intake vents at the soffit. How many square inches is this intake vent?
How many of them do you have? Soffit intake vents are okay, as long as they are not blocked - something you just discovered. But intake is worthless with exhaust.
In the image above it looks like you have 4 exhaust vent holes. How many square inches is the exhaust vent flashing? You need to calculate how much attic space you have, and from that you can determine how much ventilation you will require per your local building department. Go here for a free attic vent calculator, and input your square feet of your roof.
[Your building code might require that the storm and ice shield be installed at the base of all penetration flashings]
There are 2 basic types of exhaust vents - the kind you originally had which has a hole cut through the roof NEAR the peak (unlike yours which are 2 - 3 feet below the peak) or you can get what is called a ridge vent; a product that requires that you cut a 2" wide strip out of the subroof plywood along all the peaks of your roof. There are 2 types of ridge vent: cheap and expensive with the cheap missing a vital component to block the wind from going through the ridge vent.
If you do go back with the flashing style of exhaust vent, put some on the opposite side of your home, and not just along the back. Also, make sure not to line the exhaust vents up on either side; they should be offset, or the wind will travel straight through the exhaust vent.
The cheaper ridge vent will allow wind to travel right through the vent and it creates a high-pressure system inside of the attic, and traps the superheated air inside. The more expensive ridge vent has wind baffles on the edges that prevent the wind from rushing through the opening and creating a high-pressure system in the attic.
Example:
See the little baffles along the edges?
Attic ventilation is very important to the longevity of the roofs. Under vented roofs will shorten the lifespan by a 1/4 or 1/2 of the recommended lifespan.
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KingSobieski
Veteran XX
Houses are built all wrong
There should be 4ft of gravel under the foundation tamped every couple inches.
Then a 6" thick reinforced concrete slab with rebar every 12" crisscrossed.
Then 2ft thick walls with mason block, rebar, and grouted.
Every room is poured concrete floor with a center drain. There's a squeegee and shop broom in each room.
Then every room is plumbed with air lines and a hose reel.
The bathroom has a spicket with hot/cold and a garden hose. Theres a toilet in the corner.
That's pretty much the perfect house
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There should be 4ft of gravel under the foundation tamped every couple inches.
Then a 6" thick reinforced concrete slab with rebar every 12" crisscrossed.
Then 2ft thick walls with mason block, rebar, and grouted.
Every room is poured concrete floor with a center drain. There's a squeegee and shop broom in each room.
Then every room is plumbed with air lines and a hose reel.
The bathroom has a spicket with hot/cold and a garden hose. Theres a toilet in the corner.
That's pretty much the perfect house
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SecretSquirrel
Veteran XV
Edofnor
Veteran XX
thank u 4 not bothering by making this reply
enjoy ur pork-free time as a slave-holding slave in the "we did 9/11" caliphate of dubai inc.
American snow is heavy. Too much McDonald's and Mtn Dew. Finnish snow is lighter than air.
I bow to the master
Damn samUwell, thanks for all the info!
Owens Corning all the way. TruDefinition Duration Architectural shingles, WeatherLock Ice and Water Barrier, ProArmor Synthetic Roofing Underlayment, Starter Strip Plus Shingles, VentSure 11-1/4" Shingle Over Ridge Vent, etc.
Yep, they barely even sell 3 tabs anymore.Plas... of all the things to be an 'expert' in, I am an expert in roofing. I've done it for most of my life.
I am going to assume that you had a composition shingle on the roof, and will more than likely go back with a comp shingle? Please do all you can to not get the 3-tab comp shingle. It's a waste of time and money, unless you plan on moving before the shingle fails.
Doing 2 rows of 36 inch along the drip edges. The goobers that did the job last time split the 36 inch roll down to 18 inches on the south side
Not enough. Just 2 on the front, one on the side to vent the peak at the front (with no exhaust) and 2 on the back of the house. I'm insulating the garage so it's even worse. We were planning on replacing the soffits with perforated metal, but that will have to wait. I'll cram in some more meanwhile.
I'm doing ridge vent. There are vents near the peaks at either end on the exterior walls too. Neighbors house has both ridge and hat style, any issues with that? I'm assuming the roofers didn't want to dick around with replacing wood.
I may look into these. At least for the north/ south run at the front of the house.If you do go back with the flashing style of exhaust vent, put some on the opposite side of your home, and not just along the back. Also, make sure not to line the exhaust vents up on either side; they should be offset, or the wind will travel straight through the exhaust vent.
The cheaper ridge vent will allow wind to travel right through the vent and it creates a high-pressure system inside of the attic, and traps the superheated air inside. The more expensive ridge vent has wind baffles on the edges that prevent the wind from rushing through the opening and creating a high-pressure system in the attic.
Example:Spoiler
See the little baffles along the edges?
Yeah, to get enough ventilation, I would need 17 vent hats. Screw that. Going with ridge vents. Prevailing wind is parallel to the longest ridge, will a roll out vent be ok? Anything will be better than what was up there.
Owens Corning all the way. TruDefinition Duration Architectural shingles, WeatherLock Ice and Water Barrier, ProArmor Synthetic Roofing Underlayment, Starter Strip Plus Shingles, VentSure 11-1/4" Shingle Over Ridge Vent, etc.
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Today's progress:
Tore off the rest of the wood on the front of the house. Loaded the rest of the new wood onto the roof, and started the valley. Yes those loose sheets are secured to the deck with screws.
Sistered in a support around the area the birdhouse was in.. WTF original builders, build in a low spot in a valley on the north side of the house?
The start of the valley. Note the full sheet under the 3rd, 4th and 5th peak from the ridge. Around the white bathroom vent pipe.
Opened that up a bit with it's replacement.
The first row of the valley.
Pulled all the insulation off the (giant) soffit near the front door.
I'll install baffle boards to hold the insulation tomorrow.
Tore off the rest of the wood on the front of the house. Loaded the rest of the new wood onto the roof, and started the valley. Yes those loose sheets are secured to the deck with screws.
Sistered in a support around the area the birdhouse was in.. WTF original builders, build in a low spot in a valley on the north side of the house?
The start of the valley. Note the full sheet under the 3rd, 4th and 5th peak from the ridge. Around the white bathroom vent pipe.
Opened that up a bit with it's replacement.
The first row of the valley.
Pulled all the insulation off the (giant) soffit near the front door.
I'll install baffle boards to hold the insulation tomorrow.
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The wife has you under a strict, tight schedule
Rain outranks wife, either way rain is forecast for Sunday. I should have it buttoned up (ice and underlayment on) by then.
Perfect. There are a LOT of people who are using the ice shield all throughout the roof rather than a standard underlayment, even around here where it doesn't snow. Most of these people have a lot of extra $ and some construction manager said "it's the best" but never told the people they need to double up on their attic vents so their super expensive roofs fail quickly.Damn samUwell, thanks for all the info!
Yep, they barely even sell 3 tabs anymore.
Doing 2 rows of 36 inch along the drip edges. The goobers that did the job last time split the 36 inch roll down to 18 inches on the south side
Sidewall vents, near the peak of the wall are designed to act as both an intake and exhaust, depending on the headwind and pressure.Plasmatic said:
Installing soffit vents are a PITA and many times will reguire that you replace the soffit ply. At the link I provided with the attic vent calculator, they make really good attic intake vents/flashings that will sit on the roof, but they are expensive.
Seeing as how you are going with Owens, they make an excellent intake vent that is very similar to the ridge vent only here, you cut a 2" wide strip hear the plate or drip edge, set this intake vent on it exactly like you would with the ridge vent, and install your shingles over it.
Looks like:
Glad to hear you are using the ridge vent as I have found it to be the best way to exhaust the attic compared to the flashing vents.
You should be fine with the rolled ridge vent along the roof that does not receive the most wind. If you mostly get a N/S wind, try to put the Shinglevent II along that ridge line so you do not get the high-pressure system in the attic.
I like how you opened up the valley with the subroof plywood. Back in the day when that is all I did, I would just shake my head at the framers that did that, as it would completely close off that entire dormer or section of the roof if it had no attic intake vents.
Perfect. They make very good roofing products.Plasmatic said: