Roof technology

mine is U shaped so I can half pipe my board

KingSobieski said:

Ya not sure on the shingles seems like a scam to me. I have a simple v shaped roof. What would be the cost difference between shingles and metal?

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk

Click to expand...

I can't comment on that because we don't ever install the metal panel roofs. Those are typically installed in snow regions, so I see them up in Tahoe and shit like that. There are some individual residencies around here that have them installed but the cost per panel or labor to install them I couldn't comment on.

I like the standing seam metal roofs on some homes. If I were to get those installed on my place, I would definitely get the insulated version of them.

Another nice thing about them is you can paint them so if you get sick of the color... paint it.

You should be painting your home every 7 years and everything above the roofline should be painted every 4 - 5 years. This is due from the heat transfer from the roof to the sidewall. It cooks the walls very quickly (including stucco) so you could apply an exterior coating over the panels and if you got a lighter color, it would reflect some of the heat transferring off the roof to the walls of the home.

samUwell said:

You should be painting your home every 7 years and everything above the roofline should be painted every 4 - 5 years. This is due from the heat transfer from the roof to the sidewall. It cooks the walls very quickly (including stucco) so you could apply an exterior coating over the panels and if you got a lighter color, it would reflect some of the heat transferring off the roof to the walls of the home.

Click to expand...

I did not know this. Thank you.

Just had someone out to give us a quote on replacing our guttering and possibly doing a re-roofing from the current concrete tiles over to steel. It's a pretty low pitch (don't have to even think about snow loads or anything silly) and unfortunately sucks in debris and can get water blown back up it & between the tiles in stronger winds. Bit of a concern around bushfires for that reason with embers, too - that *is* a bit of a risk for us.

StapleMammal1 said:

I did not know this. Thank you.

Click to expand...

The paint can also start becoming permeable around that sort of timeframe, meaning its effectiveness as a water barrier becomes reduced. Depends a lot on the paints though.

This fucking corner again


Once The soffit underneath was complete I had 3 more shingles to hang on the topside


I hope there's an architect burning in hell for this goddamn design.
A vice grip to hold a nail.


While I cantilever a prybar on some scrap shingles and wail on it with a hammer to drive the nail in...


Top view.


fuck this corner


Then it was time to paint the soffit. It was fairly nice today, and this area gets afternoon sun.


Then I moved to the topside.
Sloppy but it's not visible from the ground. The pizza box I was using to edge got saturated. Wanna fight about it?

Why not use sawzall with metal blade?

To drive them in? You beat my edit with explanations bro.

MC Hamster said:

Just had someone out to give us a quote on replacing our guttering and possibly doing a re-roofing from the current concrete tiles over to steel. It's a pretty low pitch (don't have to even think about snow loads or anything silly) and unfortunately sucks in debris and can get water blown back up it & between the tiles in stronger winds. Bit of a concern around bushfires for that reason with embers, too - that *is* a bit of a risk for us.

Click to expand...

FYI - heavyweight concrete tiles are a lifetime roofing product if they were installed correctly and the roof is properly maintained. You should have your roof inspected every 2 years, and all the debris removed off the roof every year.

Honestly, there are two main downsides to a heavyweight concrete tile roof. 1) is debris that gets trapped in and around the flashings (penetration flashings, roof to sidewall flashings, valley flashings (especially the valley flashings), skylight and chimney flashings). When the debris gets trapped in the flashings, it will pile up and get sandwiched between the flashing and the tiles and a debris dam will form. When the rainwater travels down the flashing and hits this debris dam, the dam will redirect the water to the side of the flashing and over the outside hem, and onto the underlayment.


Let me show you what I mean. 3 years ago, we were contacted by a management company to check out a roof leak. The previous roofing company could not find it and it was driving the residents NUTS so, we went out and everything on the roof looked great. No cracked tiles or anything.


In the image above, we see your standard valley flashing on a heavyweight concrete tile roof. A few leaves resting on the valley and what appears to be some leave stuck between the tiles in the valley.


We removed 3 of the tiles and set them aside. Here, we can see that the debris has packed itself against the next course of tiles.


Now we get a good look at what is happening under the tiles. Any water that travels between that 1 course of tile is being routed over the outside hem of the flashing and destroying the underlayment.


Well, there's your problem...

Anyways, it was a big repair. All the tiles had to be removed out of the flashing, all the debris removed out of the flashing, the flashing removed, the bad underlayment removed, the dry rot to the subroof plywood removed and replaced, new underlayment installed, and then the tiles can be reinstalled.

All because they didn't keep their roofs clean.

The 2nd drawback to the tile roofs is due to the constant thermal expansion and contraction of the tiles every day, all day, this results in some of them cracking. Even if you keep everyone off your roof and nothing lands on the roof (baseballs, softballs, golf balls etc.), the tiles can get ridiculously hot and then at night they get as cold as it is outside.

Because of these 2 downsides, tile roofs leak a lot more than composition roof shingles. However, unlike composition shingles, you never have to replace the heavyweight concrete tile roof if you keep it well maintained.

For the metal panel roofs, keeping the tree debris off the panels should be a top priority. When tree debris rests on the roof and begins to decompose, the chemicals that are created during the decomposition of the materials will transfer to whatever it is decomposing on. For a metal roof, even if your panels come pre-painted, it could potentially begin to erode the paint coating which could eventually result in rust.

There is another style of metal roof that looks very similar to a concrete roof or a composition roof called Gerard. These are a good looking roof and can be installed over other roofing systems, as they are very lightweight. They are a pain in the ass to install and slow and difficult to repair. They also have the same issue as the tile roofs do with debris. When it comes to cleaning them, it's best to have the installers clean it or a company that can service this style of roof, as walking on these should not be done by anyone other than legit roofers. 1 wrong step and you dent the metal shingle which creates a hole in it.

A lot of people think that when you buy a new roof, it is a buy and forget. People rarely every read the manufacturer's warranty information and they all say to keep your roof maintained, and to keep all the records. If you have a roof leak that cannot be traced back to a workmanship problem and then go to the manufacturer, if you dont have records of maintenance, they can deny your claim.

Plasmatic said:

To drive them in? You beat my edit with explanations bro.

Click to expand...

Oh ok. Now I see the head on the nail. Thought was other way around. I'm a ditzy faggot. Here have some boobs.

Mmm, boobs.

Now for this gutter clusterfuck on the sunroom.


Count the parts in this gutter assembly.


We've had a goddamn waterfall over the kitchen window for as long as I can remember. Time to fix that.


It needs one of these splash diverters in the corner like I put in the front of the house


I'm pretty sure the end cap seal is gone, along with any slope it needs.


I'll get a complete section, caps, and a downspout attachment. Might cost $20. The hangers will easily double that.

<Bonus>
Luna doing Luna things

Our farm house had a metal roof put on right over the shingles. Some rednecks did it. Only leak it had was a rotted chimney flashing they didn't do right


Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk

I wonder what else they didn't do right.