Loco Hombre Off the Mexico

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Cptn Hindgrinder
 
Sorry NGFM
Frisbee golf has nothing on this.
There are rules and timing to competitive surfing
This is a nail biter heat that happened this Feb 2022



no kneeling except to get in the tube
go 2min 15 secs in

Just awesome sportage
 
Some nice small lines today at one of the Phillip Island back beaches.
It's a long weekend here, but it has been 50 f, pissing rain and blowing 30mph+ for two days so this was nice today just before heading for home.

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Great 2-3 ft longboard lines, about 200 yards of cruising. Of course I hit the reef by riding in too long, dragged the fin and also dinged my beautiful Takayama, I should have taken the foam board out, it wasn't much more than waist deep anywhere.
But I did buy it to use, not sit in the cover safe and sound :sunny:
 
Beautiful picture!! I'm glad you're getting out ArakAtak!! Great fun exercise.
Yes, boards are to be ridden and they will get pressures and dings. Hate when I get a pressure in the bottom or when the fin hits the reef, can't really fix that. Dings can be fixed. Are you going to tackle it yourself or take it to someone? I keep taking the Massive and other boards out, getting dings and pressures,,, it hurts but it happens. Nothing to do but to be as careful as possible.
 
Now I have dried it off and had a look it doesn't seem to have gone right through the glass, just a nasty gouge and a gravel rash up near the nose.

I'll probably take it to the shop and see what they think.
 
They know I'm a noob.

What sort of person besides a mid-life crises noob has a $1700 board as a starter kit?

I can do glass repairs but this board is a work of art so I'll most likely fuck it up and it will look shithouse.

Plus, by the time I buy all the crap and spend the time fixing it, the shop will end up the better option anyway. Best to leave it to the experts.
 
Thank You Mother
and Father
always trying to get out of the endless wars



Beautiful film

The Massive board is shown off here a lot.
I had a great time on mine today
 
Oops, I did it again :)

9' 6" of cruising bliss :sunny:

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Always nice to add another board to the rack!
I now have a 5'8" twin, a 7' 2+1 scorpion and now to complete the set, a 9' 6" classic noserider shape. I'm now pretty much set for all conditions. I can only go once a week and I'm not lucky enough to live above the surf break, so I have to take whatever I get when I turn up. With this I'm covered for any size wave.

It was a bargain I couldn't pass up, almost perfect condition, no dings, nice colours.
I cleaned it up and got out the buffer and shined it up like a mirror. The thing looks brand new now :)

I took it out this evening, it is so nice to catch waves on, and once it gets moving it doesn't want to stop - wow these things are heavy!

Really great fun, got a few nice waves, just trimming along. Still trying to get the feel of moving around so much on the deck.

May try again tomorrow, see if I can manage to do some pivot turns.
 
That is nice! My friends laugh at me when I call the 7' 5" Massive my long board. They say it's not a long board unless it's longer than 9'. With short board lightness chop gets to be a pain to paddle through, but with the weight and rocker of the long board they just plow through with momentum. They're a pain to carry about, but stable gliding surfing in the water. Glad you found a good classic. I don't recognize/see the logo well,,, Who made it? Thanks for the pic/turn it over and take a pic?

I'm looking at a rising tide this morning with a dying swell ~3 ft faces; looks like a day for the MotE
 
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The board is an Ocean Blue, shaped by a local NSW dude, he was doing them at a really good price (~$700), I think he stopped a couple of years ago.
He came under a bit of fire b/c he was selling them on eBay. People took this to mean it wasn't a 'real' surfboard. This was before buying almost everything on line was common I suppose, cant blame the guy for trying to reach a wider base.
BcjIxEJ.jpg


Has a double concave, slight vee and kicker at the back, big dish concave under the nose.

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It's good fun, enjoying the different feeling of riding it, not enjoying trying to get it out through the break ...

u3C9Zvm.mp4
 
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Went out to URBNSurf this morning. Took the Takayama and had a really good time. Nailed about 8/10 of my waves which is way better than usual, I must be improving!

Absolutely froze though, air and water temp was 7C (45f) and raining, I was only in a 3/2. Hands like claws and a constant brain freeze. I was ok for an hour until the hypothermia started to kick in :)



(this morning, I'm not in it)

Still all good fun though :sunny:
 
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WOW
You are really hardcore.
No way I'd be out in 45f water in a 3/2
booties needed for sure
Spoiler


but glad you had fun and a place to find consistent waves
 
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The board is an Ocean Blue, shaped by a local NSW dude, he was doing them at a really good price (~$700), I think he stopped a couple of years ago.
He came under a bit of fire b/c he was selling them on eBay. People took this to mean it wasn't a 'real' surfboard. This was before buying almost everything on line was common I suppose, cant blame the guy for trying to reach a wider base.
BcjIxEJ.jpg


Has a double concave, slight vee and kicker at the back, big dish concave under the nose.

Zevjxjz.jpg


It's good fun, enjoying the different feeling of riding it, not enjoying trying to get it out through the break ...

u3C9Zvm.mp4

The bottom sounds trick and is the key. A modern long board. I'm starting to drool for one of those. 9'6" my friends would let me in their club hehe. Like the look of the skeg/fin
 
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WOW
You are really hardcore.
No way I'd be out in 45f water in a 3/2
booties needed for sure
Spoiler


but glad you had fun and a place to find consistent waves

I had booties and gloves, nowhere near thick enough it seems, that place is way colder than the ocean.

I hit up need essentials last night and got some 5mm thermal lined mittens and 4mm thermal lined liquid sealed boots.

That should help a bit.

4/3 wetsuit next on the list :)
 
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