surfed nearly double overhead waves today
surfed nearly 4 hours
only between 1 and 4 guys going for it
I got my share of big drops (still took out the MotE... new board and all)
Saw a guy break his board today.
Saw another guy take a well over double overhead wave
steep take off, pull up and get a quick tube and then big carves on the face
and that was on a Slater Design Omni!!! like a small board
I was hooting as he came out
I've got bruises on both upper arms from wrapping my arms around the big board and plowing through white water
kinda looks like that pic