The swell started coming in yesterday. I was out late morning but the ocean was wonky choppy.. got some decent waves but
Today!
Had a real good surf day. We haven't had size in a while so it was nice. The new swells had found a rhythm. Wind stayed calm well into the afternoon. I surfed glassy slightly overhead waves with power with 3 other guys for nearly 4 hours.
right time right place
Good time came with a cost. I fell on take off on a couple perfect big waves :/ vgx
One I made the bottom and then didn't sink my tail ... lazy. I turned my upper body but not my legs. My board went straight and I started body surfing before the crunch of the lip pushed me down. The other I got hung up at the top and fell about 5 feet on my side near the bottom of the wave.... water can be hard. Ow.. then I remembered I did the same thing about 10 years ago in Oceanside. Injuries always seem to hang with me.
I need bananas
Been cramping up in my arms and stomach
I don't know how these guys live through this
surfing homicidal hold on for your life ****
(this year)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cy7OUK8r5zU
