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-DK-
VeteranXX
Old
41 - 05-18-2010, 18:54
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Without seeing the rest of the room, I would move the flash closer to the diffuser and set the zoom to 24mm. Tilt the diffuser so that it is "aiming" toward the subject more.

Given that you have white walls to work with, why not try bouncing the light off the walls/ceiling?

Just a couple of suggestions. You are close but play with the lighting a little more. Also don't shoot TTL. Shoot manual because you can control all of your variables quite easily especially for shooting stationary objects.
 
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VeteranXX
Old
42 - 05-18-2010, 18:56
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Oh and if you have a tripod you can mount the flash on that. I use a gorilla pod often, or I'll use a Manfrotto clamp for the flash. Setting it on your camera bag works but doesn't give you mobility to try out alternate lighting situations like a clamp/tripod might.
 
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triple
VeteranXV
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43 - 05-18-2010, 19:08
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there was a white wall jussssssst out of frame camera right, (hopefully) providing bounce

zoom was @ 24

ill move the flash closer, and tilt the duffuser

also i was shooting M both flash/camera.

good tips tho thanks
 
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VeteranXX
Old
44 - 05-18-2010, 19:17
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Glad to help out where I can. I would loose the diffuser panel you have and try bouncing light too... just an idea.
 
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triple
VeteranXV
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45 - 05-18-2010, 20:31
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speaking of lighting i just saw the dumbest commercial from canon (im watching the nba draft lottery before the celtics game)

scene: a football stadium. thousands of on-camera flashes go off on canon rebel slrs.

canon. canon.. why would you create an ad like that. on-camera flash isn't going to do dick in section 3006 row F. Or any section. Or on the sidelines.
 
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triple
VeteranXV
Old
46 - 05-18-2010, 22:10
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did what you said about the angle & distance

changed the subject

i like it

 
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Scourge
VeteranXX
Old
47 - 05-18-2010, 23:28
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that looks better. Still a little sharp on the reflection off the glass and I think I'd like it more as a composition if it was the whole glass, not sure though. Much better as a photo than the last one though.
 
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triple
VeteranXV
Old
48 - 05-18-2010, 23:33
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i think that can be fixed by moving the flash a little further back

unfortunately it was on the back end of my "stand" (a cd tower) and thats as far as it goes

guess it waits until i get my 3373
 
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Rulide
VeteranXX
Old
49 - 05-18-2010, 23:43
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Helado
VeteranXV
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Old
50 - 05-18-2010, 23:50
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buy the 900, use the 600 for fill. then in 6 months buy real lights

also are you really shooting events with a sb600
 
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triple
VeteranXV
Old
51 - 05-19-2010, 00:20
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the SB600 is fine used on camera or on a bracket. I also used it to light an entire banquet hall dance floor just fine (ceiling bounced, off camera).

What its not good at is stuff like night football. Otherwise, there's no issues at all. I actually prefer the controls, easy access to FEC, wireless, etc.

what am i doing at events.. bounced portraits, mostly. Shooting into a stofen. Im 3 feet away. No reason to pay an extra $250 for something with more power
 
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Last edited by triple; 05-19-2010 at 00:24..
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VeteranXX
Old
52 - 05-19-2010, 12:16
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The sb600 is just fine for shooting about anything, except as Triple says, long distance subjects. If you look at most photos posted of portraits you'll notice people are shooting at <1/4 power most of the time. Why would I want more power only to not use it.
 
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triple
VeteranXV
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53 - 05-19-2010, 17:31
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yea its like ripping people for shooting events without a d3

a sb-900 costs more than most entry level dslrs

idk im still undecided. id get an 800 but the ****ing 900 @ $450 is pushing the original price of the 800 up by a factor of 2. so its like, whats the ****ing point.
 
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triple
VeteranXV
Old
54 - 05-25-2010, 15:35
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'

amazing what a week and 350 bucks can do
 
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Last edited by triple; 05-25-2010 at 15:37..
Highfive
VeteranXX
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Old
55 - 05-25-2010, 15:57
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I don't think a better camera is going to help you. It's time to find a new hobby because it's pretty clear that you haven't the slightest bit of artistic talent.
 
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