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Yoda
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101 - 08-05-2013, 11:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Glare View Post
you're doing the 24 hours of hell?

my group is going back in the fall (not for hell though)
Ya. I am doing it for the first time this year. My partner wants to do 200 routes himself this year. We are going up Aug16-18 for a dry run and then also the weekend before.
 
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BIGSEX_
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102 - 08-05-2013, 12:43 PM
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First outdoor lead experience yesterday at a place called crag full of dynamite just outside of Santa Barbara. This was the view.



I'll take it.
 
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Glare
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103 - 08-05-2013, 01:14 PM
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daaaaamn
 
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Glare
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104 - 08-05-2013, 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Yoda View Post
Ya. I am doing it for the first time this year. My partner wants to do 200 routes himself this year. We are going up Aug16-18 for a dry run and then also the weekend before.
wow

how long are you climbing for per session to train up for that? that's gonna be awesome
 
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PyroTeknik
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105 - 08-05-2013, 01:52 PM
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Man, I haven't been able to go outdoors yet this year. Terrible schedule, and my usual climbing partner has an even worse one. On top of that, we still don't know how to lead outdoors (just learned indoor leading)...
This thread is filling me with rock envy.
 
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Yoda
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106 - 08-05-2013, 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Glare View Post
wow

how long are you climbing for per session to train up for that? that's gonna be awesome
Mon, Wed, Fri - 2-3 hrs of 10c-12a constant climbing, usually average 15 routes an hour. All lead. Sat or Sun (once a week) 6-8 hrs of non-stop top rope. We climb every 5.7-10d on the wall twice. They have 42 ropes which translates into about 100 routes.

My goal is to be able to onsight 10d while completely out of it at 6am after climbing all night.
 
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Tessien
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107 - 08-05-2013, 04:08 PM
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pics/stories/details needed
The Bugaboos are an alpine climbing area in the Purcell range of western BC.

The Bugaboos - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

They've got some amazingly classic routes. I spent 4 days there.

The climbing is on Granite spires, all of which require glacier approaches.

I don't take a lot of photos while on trips, but here are a few.



The drive in, first view of the spires.



The parking area, you have to wrap your vehicle in chicken wire, or the tires and brake lines will get chewed on by porcupines.



First day is a ~6km approach to the camping area, involving a hell of a lot of elevation gain. Took my party 3 hours. We each carried 75 lbs of gear.



There's a 40 person alpine hut that can be used for a fee, but we chose to camp at one of the nearby camping areas.



View of the hut from base camp.



Snowpatch Spire, home to some of the higher graded climbs.



The Bugaboo Snowpatch Col, we had to ascend this both days to reach the start of our climbs. The Kain route starts to climbers right of the col.



Pigeon Spire from the east, destination for day 1 of climbing. We climbed the West Ridge route.



Howser towers northwest of Pigeon.



Yours truly on the first peak of Pigeon, second and third peaks behind me. Bugaboo spire over my right shoulder. Both of our ascents took 10+ hours.



The Bugaboo spire, the peak for which the area is named, and our objective for day 2. We took the Kain route, which is the visible arete and ridge running up the peak. The area is famous for it's changeable weather, you can see some thunderheads rolling from the northeast.



My climbing partner preparing for the rap down the col, over the bergschrund.



Finally to demonstrate scale; a couple pictures of climbers on Sunshine Crack, Snowpatch spire. The spires are much, much larger than they appear.



 
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Last edited by Tessien; 08-06-2013 at 12:25 AM.
Skipperlipicus
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108 - 08-05-2013, 08:02 PM
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awesome stuff tessien, you should make a thread of this in general discussion.
 
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PyroTeknik
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109 - 08-05-2013, 10:40 PM
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Holy crap those scale shots.
 
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Reno
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110 - 08-06-2013, 05:46 AM
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Damn. Gorgeous.
 
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ElectroWaffle
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111 - 08-06-2013, 09:35 AM
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Let me know if you want to go to Reimers. We are trying to go a couple more times before horseshoe hell.
Another Austinite eh?

I've been out there once. PM me next time you go, if I'm free I'll come tag along.
 
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Yoda
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112 - 08-06-2013, 10:54 AM
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Another Austinite eh?

I've been out there once. PM me next time you go, if I'm free I'll come tag along.
Houston. But we have to go to Reimers or e-rock for any semi-decent outdoors climbing
 
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BIGSEX_
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113 - 08-06-2013, 02:51 PM
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Heading home (midwest) for a couple weeks and started doing some research on some climbing while I'm back at the ranch. Found this cool little deal about 10 minutes from my parents place. Should be fun.

Mountain Project: Climbing Jake's Rock
 
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Kelven
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114 - 08-06-2013, 08:24 PM
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Been climbing for a little over a year, I am too fat and old to ever be any good at it. Climb inside a lot, climbed outside twice. Addictive sport, having to take a month off due to injury then will get back at it. Honestly I can never seem myself being much more then a 5.9 to 5.10 climber.
 
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Yoda
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115 - 08-06-2013, 10:19 PM
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Been climbing for a little over a year, I am too fat and old to ever be any good at it. Climb inside a lot, climbed outside twice. Addictive sport, having to take a month off due to injury then will get back at it. Honestly I can never seem myself being much more then a 5.9 to 5.10 climber.
There are tons of 5.9-5.10 lines that are truly awesome. Also, you never know, in our climbing group we have a couple of guys north of 40 who started climbing in their mid-30s and are projecting 11s now. I actually really hate the training to get stronger for the sake of being able to do a particular number. I usually want to get stronger so I can go longer and do more of the fun longer climbs
 
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Reno
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116 - 08-07-2013, 05:24 PM
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There are lots of rad easy climbs. Upper Exum on the Grand for example doesn't get above 5.4 but is still a phenomenal climb.
 
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Kelven
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117 - 08-08-2013, 05:24 AM
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my biggest frustration right now is that as soon a I start making some real progress I injure something. Had shoulder bursitis for about 6 months and within a few month of that healing my elbow swelled up like a golf ball. All of them over use old people injuries.
 
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Denver
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118 - 08-08-2013, 05:42 AM
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Kelven,
i really don't feel like preaching about nutrition in here, as I have very different view than most people do. But if you're constantly in an inflammation circle, I'd definitely look into foods that can lower inflammation values and stay away from ones that keep causing inflammation. As a test I'd recommend leaving grains and dairy altogether for a month or two and see if you're feeling better and staying healthy.

Mad respect Tessien for those pics, must have been an awesome trip/climb!
 
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Kelven
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119 - 08-08-2013, 06:19 AM
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I eat a very healthy diet and haven't done dairy in years. I do agree I need to find food or a supplement that may help. I also have changed the way I train, doing things at higher repetition and lower weight. Trying to tone down instead of bulking up etc. I would like to lose 5 to 10 pounds without losing strength and I think not only would it help me a be a better climber it would ease up on the injuries.
 
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Tessien
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120 - 08-08-2013, 12:59 PM
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If your injuries are specifically coming from climbing you might want to just back off a little on the training. I've had more than a few forearm and finger injuries due to training too hard too frequently.
 
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