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Yoda
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41 - 05-22-2013, 11:24 AM
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Congrats!
 
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BIGSEX_
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42 - 05-22-2013, 12:58 PM
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Thanks! Also a couple action shots for the hell of it



 
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Tessien
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43 - 05-22-2013, 10:36 PM
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No lead in the comp?
 
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BIGSEX_
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44 - 05-23-2013, 09:34 AM
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Nope, this was just top roping
 
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Glare
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45 - 05-23-2013, 10:07 AM
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any suggestions on climbing shoes? i'm not sure how much i'll use them after this trip but if they're not outrageously expensive then i'd rather buy a pair than rely on someone else to have my size (is sizing pretty standard?)

should i try and break them in?
 
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BIGSEX_
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46 - 05-23-2013, 11:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Glare View Post
any suggestions on climbing shoes? i'm not sure how much i'll use them after this trip but if they're not outrageously expensive then i'd rather buy a pair than rely on someone else to have my size (is sizing pretty standard?)

should i try and break them in?
Depends on how much you'll be climbing. From my limited experience, I've bought 2 entry level pairs of shoes (Evolv Defy and La Sportiva Nago), and they were both right around the $80-90 mark. I've gotten good use out of both and they're definitely good enough for a beginning to intermediate climber.

As far as sizing goes, in climbing shoes you want your toes touching the end of the shoe, so they should be tight (to the point of being slightly painful if you keep them on for decent periods of time). My street shoe size is 9 or 9.5, in climbing shoes I wear 8.5. In general, at least a half size down is good, possibly a whole size.

Anyone with more experience feel free to jump in and tell me if I got any of that wrong.
 
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Last edited by BIGSEX_; 05-23-2013 at 04:21 PM.
Yoda
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47 - 05-23-2013, 11:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGSEX_ View Post
Depends on how much you'll be climbing. From my limited experience, I've bought 2 entry level pairs of shoes (Evolv Defy and La Sportiva Nago), and they were both right around the $80-90 mark. I've gotten good use out of both and they're definitely good enough for a beginning to intermediate climber.

As far as sizing goes, in climbing shoes you want your toes touching the end of the shoe, so they should be tight (to the point of being slightly painful if you keep them on for decent periods of time. My street shoe size is 9 or 9.5, in climbing shoes I wear 8.5. In general, at least a half size down is good, possibly a whole size.

Anyone with more experience feel free to jump in and tell me if I got any of that wrong.
For intro stuff, this is pretty much all I'd say. Do not get 'aggressive' shoes or let anyone try to sell you them. You will be miserable. You want your feet to fit snug in the shoe without any breathing room. A little bit of pain/discomfort is fine, shoes will expand to fit your feet, but if you are using them for likely a limited time, you don't want to kill yourself over this. To break them in, just wear them at home while sitting around. Just do 10 minutes at a time while watching TV or sitting at the computer.
 
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Denver
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48 - 05-24-2013, 02:40 AM
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Two things about climbing shoes.
#1 They are not MEANT for walking, so if walking is uncomfortable it means nothing
#2 the shoes should fit so that your heel sits tightly, as well as toes are little bend. If the heel doesn't fit hooking and the likes is a mad pain. and if the toes are not bend you can't put weight properly on the point of the shoe.

I find Evolv shoes to be perfect for the architecture of my feet, but La Sportiva shoes seem to be better made. I do have Evolv optimus primes and Evolv predators, and from la sportiva testarossas, which if they fit properly would be better shoes imo.
 
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Tessien
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49 - 05-25-2013, 12:23 AM
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Depending on the shoe type you may want to go down a few sizes. Real leather maybe get a half size lower. Synthetic shoes (Most evolv shoes) don't stretch as much, and can usually match real shoe sizes.
 
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Glare
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50 - 06-03-2013, 12:51 AM
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the trip went great. i wore an evolv 12 (decided to rent...it was $3) and they fit perfectly.

this was the first wall i climbed:



it was fairly simple but i was still elated at finishing it. true to your predictions i used a lot of upper body strength to pull my way up.

this was the second wall i climbed:



i used more legs but this wall was pretty damn easy. i started some to get some confidence...

only to run into this one (the third and final climb of the day):



the starting portion was brutal and i burnt my arms out just getting a hold but once i hit the spur in the middle it was super easy to make it to the top.

all in all, it was a great trip and i want to do it again. we would've climbed more but the weather was pretty terrible.
 
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Skipperlipicus
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51 - 06-03-2013, 02:02 AM
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Any NC climbers here? just moved from colorado and need a climbing buddy
 
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Denver
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52 - 06-03-2013, 03:44 AM
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Aight, looks great glare.

The rock seems to be pleasant with no sharp cutting edges on it and looks to be well cleaned from dirt. Nice straight forward routes a great place to go climbing!

Climbing trips can be really fun if you have good group going with you.
 
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BIGSEX_
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53 - 06-03-2013, 02:51 PM
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Where is that glare? Those look like perfect beginning climber faces. Unreal.

Hope you enjoyed it.
 
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Glare
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54 - 06-03-2013, 03:04 PM
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Horseshoe Canyon in Jasper, Arkansas

The climbing there is awesome. I did a little bouldering on the second day and the rock in that side of the park was so perfectly coarse that you didn't need chalk at all
 
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Glare
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55 - 06-22-2013, 06:09 PM
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Did indoor climbing today . Bouldering is hard as hell but fun too.

I had a groupon so I took a formal belaying class (very helpful) and climbed all day for $15. So much fun.
 
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Denver
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56 - 06-24-2013, 05:57 AM
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Think glare is hooked

did some deepwater soloing on a lake nearby me. Good **** but no marked routes or cleaned rock couldn't get much of a technique workout but was still spend after the day (about 5 hours spend on a boat and on a rock). Next time we're going gonna bring a camera so I can share some pics with you <3
 
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Glare
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57 - 06-24-2013, 08:29 AM
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that sounds awesome denver

for you more experienced guys...is indoor harder at first? (assuming you don't cheat on the routes) i got stuck on a 5.8 and couldn't believe it
 
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Skipperlipicus
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58 - 06-24-2013, 09:06 AM
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sometimes indoor routes are designed to challenge a specific skillset/technique. if you're technique is lacking you might have a hard time on said routes.
 
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BIGSEX_
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59 - 06-24-2013, 10:50 AM
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Indoor is just different.

I'm fortunate because the indoor wall I climb at has a very nice wall with lots of naturals. I can't stand the gyms with straight panels and little foot chips everywhere. Really doesn't allow for much creativity in positioning on the routes.
 
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Glare
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60 - 06-24-2013, 12:52 PM
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cool...thanks for the heads up on that. Do you guys ever cheat on the routes by using different holds?
 
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