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-Serenity
VeteranX
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1 - 04-18-2010, 00:08
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I started rock climbing seriously about a month ago. I mainly climb in the gym, but once in a blue moon, I go climb slab or crack in Squamish, BC. I'm not a strong climber and I want to know how to seriously train for climbing. Currently, I can boulder around V3-V4, top rope 10d-11b. Never tried lead climbing much because I suck and am too much of a ***** to take fat falls outdoors.

My problem is I am plateauing at around 11a because my finger strength SUCKS. I struggle up fat sloppers or little ****ing crimps ALL the time. Every climb I manged to work up was because of my footwork. My fingers are ****ing atrocious, and I need creative ways to develop it while I am not at the climbing gym. I can't install a fingerboard at home because I am renting and the landlord won't be pleased. Does anyone have any other ideas?

I see shirtless dudes (douchebags) **** around on a campus board in my gym all the time. I get on that thing and my fingers can't even support my body weight, let alone do pull ups. Its embarrassing.

For the all strong climbers out there, how long did it take you to develop your finger strength? What can I do to develop that strength without using a fingerboard? Any training techniques/tips while at the gym? When were you able to campus like a madman? Etc, etc... cheers!
 
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Fartypants
VeteranXV
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2 - 04-18-2010, 02:49
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finger strength takes a long time to develop and you can SERIOUSLY injure your tendons by trying to do too much too soon

i have some metolius rock rings ( Rock Rings ) because i too am unable to put up a fingerboard, they're pretty ok

climbing is the best way to get better at climbing tho

so yeah, climb more and be patient - you've only been climbing 'seriously' for a month
 
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ptavv
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3 - 04-18-2010, 04:07
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there are no muscles in your fingers
 
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PropIsDead
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4 - 04-18-2010, 04:16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ptavv View Post
there are no muscles in your fingers
did anyone in this thread hint at that? stop being counter productive, u schmuck.

 
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Denver
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5 - 04-18-2010, 04:19
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as ptavv said the grip strength does not come (solely) from your fingers, but it's nitpicking and I am sure we all know what "finger strength means here".

you can't possible have hit the wall in your progress yet, you've just been climbing for a month. Progression in climbing is also much slower than in many sports, but I feel it's more rewarding when you're finally able to climb something you weren't able to climb before.

Climbing 3-4 times a week will improve your grip strength and you will get better at climbing, there are different methods to obtain most out of your climbing session. I usually warm up properly on easy walls, then some hard climbing at the hardest level I can climb and finally I use the last of my strength again on the easy walls, just climbing till I can't anymore.

I just had a 2 weeks trip to Vietnam, climbed 10 days in a row was a blast. hopefully will have a vid of it edited soon so I can post here what went down.
 
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Phantred
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6 - 04-18-2010, 11:09
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Takes a few days to recover your finger strength after a good day of climbing. Think biceps but MUCH worse. Those tiny lil muscles need recovery time.

Body weight is 10 times as important as strength.
 
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GingerBreadMan
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7 - 04-18-2010, 16:11
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hi ser
 
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-Serenity
VeteranX
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8 - 04-18-2010, 19:54
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Hey broski
 
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Fartypants
VeteranXV
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9 - 04-19-2010, 11:32
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this seems like a good thread to post this in:

 
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GingerBreadMan
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10 - 04-19-2010, 15:31
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yo broly you still in the reserves finishing off your education
 
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-Serenity
VeteranX
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11 - 04-20-2010, 03:42
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Yeah broski, my edu-mumbojumbo-tion is all over the place. Then I took a year off to work for the olympics and now I'm not too keen on going back to school in Sept. I'll get that piece of paper one day, probably.

**** Fartypants, that 2 finger dyno was intense! I wanna be able to do that one day, haha. You ever see videos of Alex Honnold or Steph Davis free soloing?
 
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Denver
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12 - 04-20-2010, 06:24
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tight climbing indeed.
 
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Glare
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13 - 04-20-2010, 07:54
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what's the scale you guys use to determine level of difficulty
 
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-Serenity
VeteranX
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14 - 04-20-2010, 08:28
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USA and Hueco.
 
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Last edited by -Serenity; 04-20-2010 at 08:31..
Denver
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15 - 04-20-2010, 11:40
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I use the european standard and the french standard.
I am also aware of the V-gradings and USA sport gradings, but in europe they're not that often used.
 
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Glare
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16 - 04-20-2010, 13:11
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can you guys do one-finger pullups yet
 
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Denver
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17 - 04-20-2010, 16:40
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I am just able to do one hand pull-up , not with clean form though.
i don't think one finger pull-up is achievable for me, oh well gotta keep on pushing for it
 
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BeLiaL
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18 - 04-21-2010, 02:02
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i did a one-knuckle pull-up tonight

it was pretty easy

i got bored so i didn't do anymore
 
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Fartypants
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19 - 04-21-2010, 10:36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Glare View Post
can you guys do one-finger pullups yet
every time i try i get interrupted by either ferrari calling asking me to jump one of their cars over a volcano or gisele bundchen wanting to blow me and im all like damn cant a guy do some pullups? ****.
 
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Glare
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20 - 04-21-2010, 11:20
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actually that wasnt a joke
 
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